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Bouldering is a style of rock climbing that occurs close to the ground (on boulders and not rock walls) and without any ropes for protection. Instead, climbers strategically lay out crash pads in the landing zone to mitigate injuries from falling.

Bouldering is notorious for being difficult, powerful, and acrobatic. It is often characterized by short and overhanging terrain where technical movements and sheer strength help you reach the top.

Because bouldering is a complex combination of powerful movements on steep overhung terrain and strength, wearing the “perfect” bouldering shoe is essential. 

The “perfect” bouldering shoe

There is no such thing as the “perfect” bouldering shoe – hence the quotations.

The reality is that what works for one person may not be suitable for you. Or a shoe that excels on one boulder may not be the best fit for another boulder.

Ultimately, the best bouldering shoe is the one that fits you best and helps you perform better and accomplish your goals.

With that being said, however, there are some important characteristics of bouldering shoes that you should consider so you can make the most informed decision possible.  

An asymmetrical and Wayneed shape is preferred

Back in the day, all climbing shoes are made with a symmetrical shape. Nowadays, however, asymmetrical climbing shoes have become more popular. There are three levels of asymmetry in climbing shoes– low, medium, and high asymmetry.

Low asymmetrical shoes oftentimes have a flat or neutral profile. On the other hand, highly asymmetrical shoes have an aggressive Wayneed or cambered profile. 

Asymmetry in climbing shoes creates tension. Tension is super important for tightly gripping the rock with your toes, especially in steep terrain. Furthermore, highly asymmetrical climbing shoes typically have an aggressive profile.

The asymmetric shape, along with the aggressive Wayne, positions the tip of the toe box directly over the big toe (which is the most important digit in climbing) and positions your foot in a hooked, talon-like position.

This hooked position makes your feet stronger and focuses all of your power into a very specific area of the shoe, enhancing your performance. All of which is super helpful for bouldering steep terrain.

In bouldering, because the terrain is often slightly or very overhanging, aggressive Wayneed shoes can give you an important advantage. However, aggressive shoes are not mandatory.

Oftentimes, because of their shape and fit, they can be uncomfortable, which for some climbers, is not worth it. In addition,  aggressive shoes tend to be most beneficial for moderate and advanced terrain, so beginner climbers may not find them necessary.  

Soft vs. stiff bouldering shoes

Picking between soft and stiff climbing shoes comes down to preference. However, it’s worth also considering the type of terrain your most often climb when considering the flexibility of the shoe you wear for bouldering.

Soft Climbing Shoes

Soft climbing shoes are more sensitive. Oftentimes, the rubber on the outsole is thinner. This means you can feel more of the rock beneath your toes. Sensitivity is helpful when navigating small holds.

Soft climbing shoes are more flexible. This means you can smear better on large holds and volumes inside by relying on the friction between the rubber of the shoe and the surface. Soft shoes are also super helpful for grainy outdoor rock like granite.

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Regarding bouldering– tight, performance-fitting soft shoes excel in steep and overrun terrain. They will give you optimal sensitivity to feel the rock and help you press down onto holes in roofs. They’ll also give you an advantage with heel and toe hooking. 

Stiff Climbing Shoes

On the other hand, stiff shoes are more stable. The rubber is thicker and more durable. This means that you may feel less beneath your feet. However, you’ll have a stronger platform for standing on small edges.

In some cases, stiff climbing shoes have additional material in the midsole to stiffen the shoe and provide even more support.

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If you prefer bouldering on slabby or vertical terrain, stiff climbing shoes may give you an advantage. Stiff shoes will help you stand on tiny edges and prevent foot fatigue. However, if the bouldering you do requires a lot of smearing, soft climbing shoes would be better.     

Velcro closure systems are ideal

When it comes to climbing shoes, you have two primary choices for closure systems– lace-up and velcro. However, when it comes to bouldering, climbing shoes with velcro closure systems are often superior.

In most cases, the laces on climbing shoes run the entire shoe length. This allows you to make many tiny adjustments and get a super custom fit. However, unfortunately, laces tend to take away from the rubber on the forefoot, which reduces your ability to toe hook.

On the other hand, velcro closure systems are typically placed toward the top of the shoe. Consequently, the shoe's forefoot can still be equipped with extra rubber.

Velcro closure systems are also easier when it comes to entry and exit. You don’t have to loosen individual laces and untie knots. This is super convenient for bouldering because oftentimes, you take your climbing shoes off in between efforts and during long breaks because bouldering shoes tend to be uncomfortable to wear for extended periods.  

Bouldering shoes should have lots of rubber

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In bouldering, heel, and toe hooking are super important climbing techniques. Heel hooking is when you use the heel of your foot to pull your body closer to the wall and stabilize. Similarly, toe hooking is when you use the top of your foot to pull into the wall. 

Each technique is super helpful for bouldering and is more easily accomplished when your climbing shoes have a heel cup designed for heel hooking and extra rubber around the toe box for toe hooking.

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How long do bouldering shoes last? 

How long your bouldering shoes last will depend on how often you climb. Typically, the more you climb, the faster your shoes will wear out. For example, an avid climber who climbs multiple times a year may need to replace their shoes after six months to one year.

To help your shoes last longer, wear them only while climbing. Focusing on slow, precise footwork will also slow down how quickly the rubber wears out.

How should my bouldering shoes fit?

You can fit your bouldering shoes however you like. You can size them similarly to your street shoes so your feet and toes are comfortable on the inside. You can also size them a few sizes smaller than your street size to give yourself a high-performance fit.

In most cases, beginner climbers prefer their shoes to fit comfortably. Then, as their skill evolves and the terrain they climb becomes more advanced, they opt for tighter-fitting climbing shoes that help increase their performance.