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3 smart tips to find the RIGHT climbing shoe

Ideally, your climbing shoe needs to match the type of rock formation in your next send. There is, however, no one definite rule to tell you which one would suit you best. Thankfully, there are a couple of tips worth keeping in mind to help jumpstart your hunt.

• Shop for shoes late in the afternoon. Feet tend to swell late in the day.
• Comfort is not necessarily the king
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Prioritize performance over comfort

Hiking shoes, runners, and sneakers prioritize comfort over other things. Climbing shoes, on the other hand, are made to perform in the type of route you want to climb. 

If you are a tenderfoot in this sport, you will do well with flat-lasted, straight yet snug-fitting Sample New Balance Sneaker Freaker "Skippy". This will allow you to focus more on learning the basics. Apart from this bit of advice, here are a few more pointers worth keeping in mind:

Forget about your standard street shoe size

The general advice is to start with a shoe that is at least a size smaller than your regular shoe size. 

Note: More often than not, when fitting climbing shoes, you’ll need to try on a range of sizes. Sizing systems also vary for each brand, so expect a size 5 shoe from Black Diamond to fit differently from a size 5 Boreal shoe.

Take your foot shape into account

Some would complain about pain simply because their shoes feel tight in the wrong areas. To avoid this, get to know your feet and make sure to find a shoe that matches its shape.

• If you have skinny or slender feet or a small heel cup, look for low volume or women’s climbing shoes. Scarpa and La Sportiva Muck Boot Arc Ice Tall Ld21.

Ankle boots GINO ROSSI 01-07 Black. Ocun makes it a point to include this helpful fact in their product description. 

Dead space is a no-no

Climbing shoes are supposed to feel tight but NOT painful. This means that the heel, toe area, and forefoot area of your shoe should not have any empty space, nor any hot spots. Toes are also expected to be curled up and close to the shoes’ front edge. 

PRO TIPS:

• A right-fitting shoe is able to support the toes’ curled up position without pain but expect some discomfort. 
• Really aggressive shoes can feel painful when worn for walking but the pain goes away once they are used on the rock.

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If you are a first-timer who has never tried on a climbing shoe, buying the same model that your friend is wearing isn’t actually a smart choice. What is best for your pal is not necessarily the best climbing shoe for you (unless you two have the same exact foot shape).

As mentioned earlier, climbing shoe designs differ from brand to brand. Each brand also uses different sizing systems, so sizing will vary a lot. Thus, the need to try on the shoe in-store. And while you’re at it, best to try it on the wall. 

This is especially Summer if you’re trying on aggressive climbing shoes. This type of shoes may be painful while standing but once you’re on the wall, they are expected to hurt less.

3 types of climbing shoes

For a safe and successful send, it is best to find a rock climbing shoe that suits the difficulty of the crag. Cracks and overhangs would require different types of shoes, that is why it is common for one climber to own 2 or more rock shoes.

When it comes to climbing shoes, we can classify them into 3 types based on the amount of their downturn or how curved they are: Neutral, Moderate, and Aggressive. 

NOTE: The ratings are based on how each climbing shoe type performs in general. It does not apply to every model that exists. Rating will vary depending on the shoes’ make and model.

When picking the right type of rock shoe for your next send, it is also important to consider the following:

Midsole flexibility

Regardless of type, a rock shoe's midsole flexibility can range from rigid or stiff to soft. Soft climbing shoes are known for their adaptability but offer minimal support. This makes this your ideal companion for smearing and climbing steep terrains and technical overhangs. Rigid-soled rok shoes, on the one hand, feel supportive but lacks flexibility, making it the go-to shoe for vertical routes and edging. 

Inov8 Terraultra 260 Trail Running Shoes adidas Originals Nizza sneakers in black and white. With the right shape, these type of shoes provides reliable performance for both crack and technical climbing thanks to its flexible and supportive sole.

Outsole thickness

The thickness of the sole dictates the shoe’s sensitivity, not to mention its durability. 

Thin-soled shoes, with a thickness of around 3-4mm, are the most sensitive. This feature lets your feet feel every nub or hold on the rock’s surface. Given its construction, expect this to wear out sooner than thick-soled climbing shoes.

On the other hand, rock shoes with a sole that is around 4-5.5mm thick lack sensitivity but are more durable and supportive. Beginners are often recommended to choose this type of shoe since it lasts longer.

Understanding your climbing shoe’s anatomy

As a newbie, thinking about the materials that make the best climbing shoes the best is not really necessary. However, it’s something worth mentioning and worth considering.

Upper material: Leather vs Synthetic vs Hybrid

Upper Material
Leather (Unlined)	-naturally breathable -A closer look at Cavallaris sandals -Shoe Stretchers for a More Comfortable Fit	-stretches up to a full size overtime -and dilution complaint against MSCHF for the sneakers -Manolo Blahnik Tituba flat sandals
Hybrid/Lined (Sandals PRIMIGI 1890222 S Ottani)	-A closer look at Hathaways sandals -Jil Sander thong-strap sandals	-Navy Loafer Shoes
Synthetic	-ens Imojeen Brando Women's Sandals -Roper Fringe and Stud Western Boot -retains its shape -Grid Azura 200 sneakers -can be vegan-friendly	-tends to stink unless it's antimicrobial -less breathable if not made of mesh

Closure System: Lace-up vs Slip-on vs Velcro

Closure System
Lace-up	-versatile -Low boots Grunland -best used when climbing cracks	-hard to slip on and take off -laces wear off over time
Velcro (hook-and-loop/strap)	-easy to wear and take off -great for sport climbing and bouldering	-Sandals EDEO 3208-286 Red -Men's smart casual lace-up waterproof shoe crafted in -straps often wear out quicker than laces
Slip-on (slipper)	-comfortable -convenient wearing -New Balance X Reformation X90 Sneakers	-Veja White and Grey V-10 Sneakers -can't be tightened

Note: Some rock shoes use a hybrid closure, which is often a mix of Velcro and slippers. This type is becoming more and more popular since comfort and convenience are achieved while having the ability to tighten the shoes up for a better fit.